Over the last decade the number of available sunscreens on the market have grown exponentially, and with easy online access to overseas markets and newer formulations, it can become really confusing to choose a sunscreen. Add in a lot of misinformation and poor marketing practices, a trend of excessive consumerism in the beauty industry, and constantly being pushed to try new and innovative products – you might end up wasting your money on a product that was never meant for you in the first place.
Here is a simple guide on how to choose a sunscreen that will work for you, broken down into different factors to consider:
1. Decide what UV filters you want
All sunscreens can be grouped into 3 categories depending on their uv filters: mineral/inorganic/physical, chemical/organic, or hybrid.
Mineral filters (either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) generally make the formula thicker and more difficult to blend, notoriously leave a white cast, and are usually less cosmetically elegant. Most tinted sunscreens are mineral because pigment is used to combat the white cast. Mineral filters are often shown in marketing to reflect uv rays instead of absorbing them making them superior to chemical filters, but this is not true. They are also not necessarily better for sensitive skin types, especially if you need to rub excessively to get the product to absorb into your skin. Personally, I do not recommend a full mineral sunscreen unless you have a known sensitivity/allergy to chemical filters or if you have very fair skin that white casts barely show up on you.
Chemical filters (ex. Avobenzone, Tinosorb M, Octisalate, etc) are usually more cosmetically elegant but come with their own problems if formulated poorly. Some specific filters are known to cause sensitivity such as eye stinging or burning. They work just as well as mineral filters and aren’t any less “natural” just because they’re termed chemical – mineral filters are also chemical molecules. There are tons more chemical filters available than the 2 mineral options, which means way more different combinations and formulas.
Hybrid filters (a mix of both mineral and chemical) usually lead to a product with mixed properties. Depending on the amount of each filter they can lean more towards a typical mineral or typical chemical sunscreen.
2. Pick where to purchase your sunscreen from
Different countries have different regulations for sunscreen formulation which can affect how their products turn out. Of course, some people can be limited to where they reside, in which case you may only be able to purchase products locally. However, in today’s world it is very easy to access sunscreens from around the world with many large and reputable retailers carrying overseas products. Just make sure the site offers authentic products, and that you are comfortable with using filters that may not be FDA approved in your country (note that this doesn’t mean it isn’t safe – many new uv filters have been used for a long time in other countries without any safety concerns, it all depends on regulations).
Of course, each country has a wide range of sunscreen products and specifications. However, in general they do have some things in common which make them more suitable for a certain population. After trying hundreds of sunscreens from around the world, here is what I’ve noticed and how I would recommend them:
- North America (US/Canada): have pretty limited formulas since sunscreens are regulated as drugs, most use pretty old uv filters, drugstore options can be less cosmetically elegant (smells like typical sunscreens or stings the eyes) but are affordable and still get the job done
- Korea: increasingly popular and easily accessible online, great formulas for daily wear and many cater to sensitive skin types, can be difficult to find more heavy duty formulas that are water/sweat resistant, very affordable compared to western options, many products are very similar in formula and use the same manufacturer, uses newer uv filters
- Japan: cosmetically elegant formulas, very affordable compared to western options, lots of water/sweat resistant options, many formulas contain strong alcohol or fragrance, can be harder to find reputable online sources, uses newer uv filters
- Australia: very strict sunscreen regulations as uv is very strong here, formulas are generally a bit better than other western competitors but prices can vary and some brands are quite expensive
- EU (France, Spain, Germany, etc.): pretty innovative formulas including more uv filter options than North America, usually more expensive than KR/JP sunscreens, big brands have many different versions of the same sunscreen depending on which country they are selling it in
3. Consider your personal preferences
- Water resistance: suitable if you are very active outdoors or just need more heavy duty formulas (hot/humid climates)
- Alcohol-free: usually not an issue for the general population, unless you have a known sensitivity to alcohol in formulas (ie. burning sensation) or you just don’t like the smell
- Fragrance-free: complete personal preference, you can avoid it if you have more sensitive skin or if you have sensitivity to a certain fragrance
- Tint: some products are tinted a certain color for different purposes (ex. Green to help with redness), foundation tinted sunscreens generally have mineral filters and I don’t recommend them as your base sunscreen as most people don’t use enough to get adequate coverage
- Finish: dewy (the most shiny looking) is more suitable for very dry skin types, satin/natural finishes are great for all skin types (recommended more for normal/combo skin) and matte finish is usually targeted for oily skin types who need more sebum control
Now that you have a general understanding of the available sunscreens on the market and how they differ, you can make a better informed decision when choosing a sunscreen for your skin. Once you have narrowed down to a couple products, looking through individual reviews and other people’s experiences can be very helpful as well. To help you in your journey of finding the perfect sunscreen, I’ve created a sunscreen filter which you can access for free below: